Implementation of Indah Mayang Embroidery in Pariaman City to Increase Sales of the Creative Fashion Industry

ABSTRACT


INTRODUCTION
The creative economy is a new economic concept that combines information and creativity which relies on ideas, notions and knowledge from human resources as a production factor.In economic studies, it is known that there are four factors of production, namely natural resources, human resources, capital and orientation or management.Based on data from the opus creative economy report (2018), the contribution of the creative economy to gross domestic income (gdp) has increased from year to year.Since it started in 2012, the contribution of the creative economy has only been 7.02% of national gdp and increased to 7.66% in 2016.Meanwhile, the largest contribution from the creative economy industrial sub-sector in 2020 was in the culinary industry at 41.40%, while second place is the fashion industry at 18.01% and third place is the craft industry at 15.40%.To see data on the development of the creative industries subsector in 2020, see table 1 below: Seeing the large contribution of the creative economy of fashion, the creative economy sector has an important role in creating regional gross domestic product (GRDP) in the economic development of a region.Pariaman city is one of the areas that has a creative economic industry producing embroidered cloth crafts in West Sumatra.Pariaman City embroidered cloth crafts have long been very famous and have even reached overseas markets.
Based on BPS data in 2020, the number of handicraft industries in Pariaman City was 1,117 units spread across four sub-districts, namely north pariaman district, central Pariaman district, Pariaman District and East Pariaman District.One of the handicrafts in North Pariaman district is embroidered cloth crafts found in naras.The number of embroidery craftsmen is 117 units spread across each village.
The embroidered fabric craft industry is one of the sub-sectors of the creative fashion industry which is one of the skills passed down from generation to generation in pariaman city in particular.The handicraft products produced include embroidered clothing, embroidered wedding dresses, embroidered scarves and other embroidered products.The characteristic of naras embroidery products is that they use gold thread, so that gold thread embroidered fabric products are able to provide their own beauty and appeal.Since the covid-19 pandemic, the naras Pariaman embroidery industry has experienced a setback and decreased revenue and sales turnover.This is due to low people's purchasing power and also the fact that national economic conditions haven't yet recovered.Based on the table above, it can be seen that the sales turnover of Sulaman Indah Mayang has fluctuated from year to year.Since the covid-19 pandemic in 2020, sales turnover has decreased drastically by 233%.Then in 2021 it rose again by 33.3%.Based on the results of interviews and observations of researchers at sulaman indah mayang led by mrs.Fitrinawati, several problems are the decline in sales volume of embroidered fabric products due to the lack of innovation in the design of new product motifs and the absence of innovative products and the use of new technology in creating fashion products.Seeing this situation, the researchers were interested in studying in more depth the creative fashion industry developed by the naras embroidery fabric craft business industry in Pariaman City.
The creative economy era is a shift from the agricultural economic era, the industrialization era, and the information era.According to the indonesian ministry of trade ( 2009), creative industry is an industry that originates from the use of individual creativity, skills and talents to create prosperity and employment opportunities by generating and empowering the individual's creativity and inventiveness.The scope of activities of the creative economy can cover many aspects.The ministry of trade (2008) identified at least 14 sectors included in the creative economy, namely: advertising, architecture, design, markets, arts, crafts, music, fashion, interactive games, video, film and photography, performing arts, services, computers and software, research and development, publishing and printing, television and radio.
Role means something that is played or carried out.According to syamsir (2014) a role is defined as an activity that is played or performed by someone who has a position or social status in the organization.So a role is defined as a set of behaviors that people in society are expected to have.Meanwhile, craftsman comes from the root word diligent.Craftsman has a meaning in the class of nouns or nouns so that craftsmen can state the name of a person, place or all objects and everything that is made of things.
The meaning of the word fashion comes from english, namely fashion.According to troxell and stone in their book fashion merchandising.Fashion is defined as a style that is accepted and used by the majority of members of a group at a certain time.Fashion specifically means the style of clothing that is used every day by someone.According to hamlin (2022), several types of fashion that can be found are: 1) chic fashion, making someone stylish without being a slave to fashion, which describes someone who is fashionable, 2) haute couture (haute couture), this style has high level clothing making techniques with best quality materials with detailed decorations specifically for those who order.3) casual, is a style of clothing that is used when relaxing, always synonymous with tshirts, jeans, flat shoes, 4) edgy style, this style has a fashion or applies an appearance that has a 'fierce' character which shows its characteristic, namely combining more black.5) classy, this style means classy, which is always synonymous with luxury items, which are usually worn by upper class people.
Embroidery comes from the english word."embroidery" which means embroidery, also According to law no.20 of 2008 concerning micro, small and medium enterprises.Small businesses are productive economic businesses that stand alone, which are carried out by individuals or business entities that are not subsidiaries or branches of companies that are owned, controlled, or are part, either directly or indirectly, of medium or large businesses that meet the business criteria.Small as intended in this law.Small and medium enterprises, abbreviated as smes, is a term that refers to the type of small businesses that have the following assets; (1) Micro business: (assets)max.50 million, (turnover) max.300 million.(2) Small businesses: (assets) > 50 million -500 million, (turnover) > 300 million -2.5 billion.(3) Medium enterprises: (assets) > 500 million -10 billion, (turnover) > 2.5 billion -50 billion.

METHOD
The research method used in this research is a descriptive qualitative research approach.The types of data used are primary data and secondary data.Research data in the form of oral information and documents related to research.This data was obtained through direct interviews with managers, craftsmen and consumers of UKM Sulaman Indah Mayang, Pariaman City.Therefore, in qualitative research, the research instrument is a person or human instrument.
The data analysis technique used is qualitative data analysis.According to Sutaryo ( 2004) qualitative descriptive analysis includes data redaction, data presentation and conclusion drawing.These three data analysis techniques are used as references in this research.Presentation of this data can be obtained using the formula:

Relative Value = Number of Answers x 100 % Number of Question
As for measuring the respondent response criteria, use the following table: Meanwhile, drawing conclusions must be broad, open and skeptical.Re-examination of the correctness of the data that has been obtained.

RESULT AND DISCUSSION
The Indah Mayang Embroidery Industry is one of the small and medium enterprises (UKM) of the many embroidery industries in Pariaman City.UKM Sulaman Indah Mayang was founded by Mrs. Fitrinawati in the 1960s.This small business is located in Padang Birikbirik Naras Village, North Pariaman District, Pariaman City.At the start of her embroidery business, she started by making five pieces of race scarf.Using the embroidery and sewing skills she had had since childhood, Mrs. Fitrinawati finally started a business in the One of the types of embroidery products (fashion) produced by the Indah Mayang Embroidery Small Business is Bridal Clothing; Minang Kabau traditional bridal clothing is worn by brides, both men and women.The color of this clothing is usually bright red, both for the anak daro (the bride) and marapulai (the groom).This outfit is equipped with decorations and a head covering so that the bride has a majestic, elegant and luxurious aura.Not surprisingly, this clothing was inspired by European and Chinese clothing of that era.
The decoration starts from the neck to the ankles, the race gloves and don't forget the suntiang.using Kapalo Panitik, Suji Caiah, and Banang Ameh Batakaik embroidery.Meanwhile, for the groom (marapulai) it's deta/saluak (head covering), baju gadang basiba (shirt), sarawa (pants), serong/sisampiang (side cloth), karih (keris).The wedding dress is decorated with motifs that have meaning according to Minangkabau culture.Prices for Minagkabau bridal clothing are sold at prices ranging from IDR 7.500.000 to IDR 15.000.000.The next product is Shawls; traditional Minangkabau Shawls clothing in the form of long cloth with embroidered patterns.Shawls are usually worn by women.Shawls are also an integral part of wedding ceremonies and are also used on official occasions and traditional minagkabau arts events.The price of this embroidered shawl is sold from idr 300,000 to idr 3,500,000.Any woman who wears it will look very elegant.Minangkabau Traditional Gowns is clothing embroidered with safety pins or Kapalo Samek, which is clothing worn at party events, both morning, afternoon, evening and evening parties, where the clothing worn is more special than everyday clothing, both in terms of materials and sewing techniques design and decoration.Dresses embroidered with pins or similar are embroidered directly by craftsmen.With basic ingredients baloteli.This shirt is suitable as a robe or clothes hanger decorated with various flowers and fabric colors.The price of this embroidered dress is around 250.000 to 1.000.000IDR.On the traditional naras pariaman altar, there are only 3 types of hand embroidery, namely gold thread embroidery, embroidery with beads/sequins, and gold thread embroidery using glass.The application of hand embroidery to the parts of the naras aisle, namely embroidery attaching threads to each part of the aisle, namely; wall curtains, lelansir, ombakombak, lidah-lidah, langik-langik batirai, banta gadang, ankin-ankin, and dalamak.Embroidery attaches motes/sequins to each part of the aisle, namely; tabia dinding, lelansir, ombak-ombak, lidah-lidah, langik-langik batirai, banta gadang, ankin-ankin, and dalamak.Gold thread embroidery using glass found on the tabir, langik-langik batirai, banta gadang and dalamak.
Apart from clothing for weddings, there are also other clothing products such as mukena.Mukena is a prayer clothing used by muslim women, which is used as a means of equipment for a muslim woman to get closer to her creator.The price of this mukena is sold starting at idr. 100,000 to idr 350,000.This price depends on the material used in the mukena.The next products are pillow cases and table mats.Chair cushion covers have the function of protecting the chair from scratches and dirt, and also add beauty to the chair which has its own art.This chair cushion cover has a glass pattern and affects the overall appearance of the guest chair.Meanwhile, the material will determine the texture, temperature and breathability of the pillowcase.Fully embroidered chair cushion covers are sold from 350.000 to 600.000 IDR.A tablecloth is a cloth used to cover a table, which can also help protect the table from scratches and stains.Tablecloths are designed to be spread across the dining table before placing plates and food.The creative economy plays a role in a nation's economy, especially in generating income (income generation), creating jobs (job creation) and increasing export earnings (export earnings), improving technology (technology development), increasing intellectual property (intellectual property), and the role of other social.

Increase Production
Production is creating, producing and making.Production activities cannot be carried out if there are no materials that enable the production process itself to be carried out.The meaning of production is not only limited to the manufacturing process, but extends to marketing.In practice, several craftsmen in ukm sulaman indah mayang buy the raw materials needed from other parties to make the products they own.To see the production development of ukm embroidery Indah Mayang, Pariaman City in the last 5 years, see the following table: Based on the table above, there will be a decline in production in 2020-2021.Then in 2022 it will again increase by 35%.This indicates that the feshen embroidery product business has revived after the pandemic.So, UKM Indah Mayang carry out several strategies to increase sales.Creativity is any action, idea, or product that transforms an existing domain into a new domain.This is in accordance with what was expressed by one of the craftsmen who stated "I do embroidery on Muslim clothes, I have my own creativity that other craftsmen don't have, namely by making creative Muslim clothes embroidery, with new designs and motifs.Then my customers increase, so the increase in product orders automatically increases my income."(Rohani interview, 2022).
Apart from that, from an interview with Mariani, who is also a craftsman, he also felt the same way and said that the scarf making he does continues to give rise to new creativity and innovation from classic to modern models, so that many consumers order scarves according to their wishes, so many consumers come.so that the income he receives increases.From the income received by Mariani, she can meet household needs and send her children to college.From the research data and interviews above, it can be seen that embroidery craftsmen seem to have quite an important role as craftsmen in increasing their creativity.Of the 117 craftsmen, there are around 82 craftsmen.or 70% who play an important role in increasing the creativity of feshen embroidery products, while the remaining 30% or the lack of craftsmen's role in increasing their creativity in developing embroidery products in the city of Pariaman are 35 people, this can be seen from old products that have not been developed using motif technological innovations New to the production process of feshen embroidery products at the Mayang Beautiful Embroidery UKM.

Improve Marketing
Marketing is an economic activity carried out to fulfill the needs and desires of consumers with the products offered by the company.Based on the results of research on feshen embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city, it can be seen that the global marketing role of feshen embroidery products is still very low and plays little role in international marketing.Where marketing is currently dominated by the local or domestic market.Based on interview data with craftsmen, the marketing of fashion embroidery ukms in kota pariaman that has penetrated foreign markets is only 17 units or 15% of the 117 embroidery ukm units.Apart from that, 85% of pariaman city embroidery smes are dominated by domestic local market marketing.
One important aspect related to marketing problems commonly faced by ukm embroidery craftsmen is the lack of marketing networks both nationally and internationally, so that embroidery products still rely on the local market.Likewise, there are competitive pressures for similar products, such as embroidery craft centers which are widely available in the domestic and export markets.As a result, it can be assumed that kota pariaman fashion embroidery products are unable to compete with similar products from outside the region.This indicates that the quality competitiveness of similar products outside the region is very high and the prices are low.This is a significant challenge for pariaman city embroidery craftsmen to face similar products which are increasingly aggressively marketing their products both domestically and abroad.

Use of Information Technology
The role of technology and information in the creative industry cannot be denied, because technology and information are very influential in making the creative process easier.Creativity is the main key in the creative industry.In this day and age, technology and information are developing more rapidly, such as the internet, computers, software, and other equipment.Technology can make things easier and can make things difficult for someone, it just depends on how someone can use it wisely.For example, to be creative, someone will need the internet as an unlimited source of information, but on the other hand, sometimes too much information can also make someone limited in their creativity.(Wibisono, 2010).
The role of information technology in the creative industry is not only in the form of tools and auxiliary machines but also methods, activity techniques and ways that can make things easier for humans.Meanwhile, information is knowledge, news and data that is useful for certain purposes.It can't be denied that information technology and the creative industry cannot be separated.Technology and information can influence the productivity and quality of the creative industry.For example, craftsmen and designers can use feshen embroidery image design software.For feshen embroidery smes, they can use technology to make breakthroughs in marketing advertising through online media.
Based on research conducted at mayang indah embroidery ukm, embroidery craftsmen in Pariaman City in particular and west sumatra generally do not use technology in the form of computer technology in the production or marketing process, but it is still manual in nature.This technological backwardness not only results in low total factor productivity and efficiency in the production process, but also the low quality of the innovative products made.The limited use of technological touches, especially computers, to design the motifs used in designing embroidery product designs means that embroidery craftsmen still use old motif designs.
The low level of mastery of modern technology possessed by feshen mayang indah kota pariaman embroidery craftsmen is a serious threat to the ability of embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city to be able to compete in the future global market era.For this reason, small and medium businesses of Pariaman City embroidery craftsmen inevitably have to take advantage of technology in developing their businesses in the future.Based on the results of research conducted at the embroidery craft center in Pariaman City, it can be seen that in general embroidery craftsmen have not utilized online shop sales through applications such as shoppe, tokopedia, bukalapak, lazada or other social media such as watshapp or facebook.
Based on the results of an interview with one of the pariaman city embroidery craftsmen who is also the owner of sulaman indah mayang, Fitrinawati (2022) stated, "in general, there are still few embroidery craftsmen in Pariaman City who use online media to promote their embroidery products in online stores such as Shopee, Tokopedia, Bukalapak, Blibli, OLX and so on".In the current era of globalization, product sales are increasingly utilizing online media, because the process of purchasing goods or services from those who sell via the internet online is faster without having to meet the seller face to face.During the current covid-19 pandemic, a great opportunity for marketing is through online stores.Based on interview research data with embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city, the role of craftsmen is very low in utilizing information technology by setting up an online shop, only 7 units or 3.1%, while the other 96.9% do not have an online shop on social media.

Increase Income
The creative economy plays a role in a nation's economy, especially in generating income (income generation), creating jobs (job creation) and increasing export earnings  Based on the table above, it can be seen that the sales turnover of sulaman indah mayang has fluctuated from year to year.Since the covid-19 pandemic in 2020, sales turnover has decreased drastically by 233%.Then in 2022 sales will increase by 33.3%.This indicates the lack of role of craftsmen in increasing income through selling feshen embroidery products.This is because during the pandemic product sales only relied on direct distribution marketing, without looking for other alternative marketing distribution by utilizing social media and online media such as: shoppe, lazada, bukalapak and other social media such as whatsapp and facebook which have a big influence on marketing.
Apart from that, the use of online media is also considered capable of increasing sales volume.Online application media has recently become popular among producers at both high and low economic levels.This is because promotions through online media make it easier to reach and introduce their products to consumers.

Role Analysis
Based on research data and interviews with ukm embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city, several problems were found regarding the lack of role of craftsmen in increasing production, marketing, use of information technology and increasing income, while what really played a role was increasing the creativity of ukm embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city.Based on research data and interviews with ukm embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city, several problems were found regarding the lack of role of craftsmen in increasing production, marketing, use of information technology and increasing income, while what really played a role was increasing the creativity of ukm embroidery craftsmen in pariaman city.To see the development of the role of several criteria to increase sales of ukm sulaman indah mayang, pariaman city, you can see the following table: Based on table 6 above, it can be seen that the criteria for increasing production at ukm sulaman indah mayang, pariaman city are 33%.This shows that the role of craftsmen is lacking in increasing production to reach 100%.Meanwhile, the criteria for increasing creativity reached 70%, which shows that it plays a significant role in increasing sales volume.For global marketing criteria it reaches 15%, which means it does not play a role, likewise the use of technology reaches only 3%, which means it does not play a role in

CONCLUSIONS
The creative economy plays a role in a nation's economy, especially in generating income (income generation), creating jobs (job creation) and increasing export earnings (export earnings), improving technology (technology development), increasing intellectual property (intellectual property), and the role of other social.Based on research data and interviews with UKM Embroidery Craftsmen in Pariaman City, several problems were found regarding the lack of role of craftsmen in increasing production, marketing, use of information technology and increasing income, while what really played a role was increasing the creativity of UKM Embroidery craftsmen in Pariaman City.
There was an increase in production at UKM Embroidery Indah Mayang, Pariaman City by 33%.This shows that the role of craftsmen is still lacking in increasing production to reach 100%.Meanwhile, the criteria for increasing creativity reached 70%, which shows that it plays a significant role in increasing sales volume.For global marketing criteria, it reaches 15%, which means it does not play a role, likewise the use of technology only reaches 3%, which means it does not play a role in increasing sales volume.Likewise, an increase in revenue of 33% means that reducing roles also increases sales volume.

Figure 5 .
Figure 5. Mukena (Doc.Fitrinawati, 2022)Muslim clothing is various types of clothing worn by muslim women in accordance with the provisions of islamic law, intended to cover parts of the body that are inappropriate for showing to the public.The main purpose of clothing or clothing for muslims is basically as a tool to cover the private parts.Because the law of covering in the islamic religion is obligatory for every person who has bukallaf.Muslim clothing is made with Minangkabau motifs.The price for selling muslim clothes ranges from 250.000 to 750.000 IDR, depending on the material and motifs used in muslim clothing.

Table 1 .
Data on Contribution of the Creative Economy Sub-Sector in 2020 (Source: Indonesian Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy, 2020)
Irja, Implementation of Indah Mayang Embroidery in Pariaman City to Increase Sales… 365

Table 3 .
Criteria for Responses to Respondents

Table 6 .
Criteria and Roles for Increasing Sales Volume of UKM Indah Mayang