THE SUITABILITY OF HELEN JOSEPH ARMSTRONG’S RAGLAN SLEEVE PATTERN FOR IDEALIZED BODY TYPES OF INDONESIAN WOMEN
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.24114/gr.v14i1.64521Keywords:
Raglan, Sleeve, Pattern, Helen Joseph Amstrong, Ideal BodyAbstract
The Helen Joseph Armstrong raglan sleeve pattern is widely used in garment making, but it is not yet fully suitable for the body proportions of ideal adult Indonesian women. This misfit can result in discomfort and aesthetic issues in clothing, which necessitates research to analyze the weaknesses and make pattern adjustments. This study aims to identify weaknesses, make improvements, and evaluate the fit of the raglan sleeve pattern for women with a height of 165 cm and weight of 53 kg, in accordance with the Body Mass Index (BMI) classification for adult Asians. The research method uses an applied approach, with a Likert scale-based assessment format and descriptive statistical analysis. The evaluation focuses on indicators such as sleeve length, peak arm height, midline of the arm, shoulder slope, raglan line, bicep, elbow line, and sleeve cuff circumference by four panelists. The results show that in the first fitting, the average pattern fit was only 63%, categorized as fairly suitable. Several weaknesses were identified, such as a backward shoulder line, raised raglan line, and overly large biceps. Adjustments were made by modifying the shoulder line, lowering the raglan line, reducing bicep size, and adjusting the sleeve cuff circumference. In the second fitting, the pattern fit increased to 86%, categorized as very high. These results indicate that pattern adjustments are essential to achieving optimal fit for ideal adult Indonesian women, thereby improving both comfort and aesthetic appearance in clothing.References
Alhail, H., Rubijanto, V. J., Musthafa, A., Purnama, D., & Utama, I. G. A. G. A. (2024). Implementation of Kosa Rupa Book: Drawing and Coloring of Elementary School Teachers in Pegayaman Viilage, Bali. Gorga : Jurnal Seni Rupa, 13(2), 670–679. Retrieved from http://103.242.233.34/index.php/gorga/article/view/64329
Agusti, R., Zahri, W., & Nelmira, W. (2015). Kesesuaian pola dasar Lucia Mors de Castro pada bentuk tubuh wanita ideal. Home Economics and Tourism: A Social Sciences Journal, 8(1).
Apristianda, Neng Belina, & Kharnolis, Mein. (2023). Pembuatan Busana Pesta Muslim Malam Menggunakan Lengan Raglan Kombinasi Bishop. Jurnal Online Tata Busana, 12(1), 1–7.
Armstrong, H. J. (2010). Patternmaking for fashion design (5th ed.). New York: Pearson Education.
Cahyani, F, D, & Adriani. (2021). Kesesuaian Pola Pantalon Sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong Pada Lelaki Dewaasa Bertubuh Proposional Indonesia. Jurnal Pendidikan, Busana, Seni, dan Teknologi, 00(0). ISSN: Print 2685-922x
Dillon, John. (1992). Raglan Sleeve Surgical Gown. Texas: United States Patent., (19).
Ernawati, I., I, & Nelmira, W. (2008). Tata busana jilid 1. Jakarta: Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan.
Ernawati, I., I, & Nelmira, W. (2008). Tata busana jilid 2. Jakarta: Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan.
Hanifah, Hanifah, & Ernawati, Ernawati. (2019). Kesesuaian Pola Celana Sistem Charmant Pada Wanita Dewasa Indonesia Bertubuh Ideal. Gorga : Jurnal Seni Rupa, 8(2), 358. https://doi.org/10.24114/gr.v8i2.15265
Hidayah, Nurul, & Yasnidawati, Yasnidawati. (2019). Penyesuaian Pola Dasar Busana Sistem Indonesia Untuk Wanita Indonesia Dengan Bentuk Badan Gemuk. Gorga : Jurnal Seni Rupa, 8(1), 222. https://doi.org/10.24114/gr.v8i1.13595
Listiani, Sri, & Wulandari, Ely Tri. (2022). Dasar-Dasar Busana. Kementerian Pendidikan, Kebudayaan, Riset, dan Teknologi.
Marwiyah. (2010). Dasar busana. Teknologi Jasa dan Produksi: UNNES.
Muliawan, P. (2011). Konstruksi pola busana wanita. Jakarta: Libri.
Poespo, G. (2000). Aneka lengan baju dan manset (Sleeves and Cuffs). Yogyakarta: Kanisius.
Pratiwi, D. (2001). Pola dasar dan pecah pola busana. Yogyakarta: Kanisius.
Ratri, Ika Madya. (2018). Perbandingan Hasil Pembuatan Lengan Draperi Menggunakan Pola Sistem Draping Dan Sistem Praktis. Fashion And Fashion Education Journal, 07(1), 19–22.
Riyanto, A. A., & Zulbahri, L. (2009). Modul dasar busana. Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia, 1, 66.
Sari, P, D, & Yusmerita. (2023). Perbedaan Hasil Pola Dasar Dressmaking dengan Pola Dasar Cuppens Geurs pada Wanita Indonesia Bertubuh Gemuk. Jurnal Pendidikan Tambusai, 07(1).
Setyaningsih, S., et al. (2010). Analisis sensori untuk industri pangan dan agro. Bandung: IPB Press
Sugiyono. (2013). Metode penelitian kuantitatif kualitatif dan R&D. Bandung: Alfabeta.
Yuliarma. (2016). Dasar-dasar teknik pembuatan busana, Edisi Pertama. Jakarta: Kencana.
Zulekha, S. (2021). Kesesuaian pola bustier sistem Helen Joseph Armstrong pada wanita dewasa bertubuh gemuk tinggi Indonesia. Skripsi thesis. Universitas Negeri Padang.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2025 Aulya Fithri, Weni Nelmira
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Copyright
Authors published in this journal agree to the following terms:
- The copyright of each article is retained by the author (s).
- The author grants the journal the first publication rights with the work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, allowing others to share the work with an acknowledgment of authorship and the initial publication in this journal.
- Authors may enter into separate additional contractual agreements for the non-exclusive distribution of published journal versions of the work (for example, posting them to institutional repositories or publishing them in a book), with acknowledgment of their initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (For example in the Institutional Repository or on their website) before and during the submission process, as this can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and larger citations of published work.
- Articles and all related material published are distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
License
Gorga : Jurnal Seni Rupa is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
